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Framed Staple Tutorial

Framed Staple Tutorial

Hey everyone, it’s Ariesjj with you. Today we’re going to be continuing on with the build progression tutorial series. We’ll be covering staples, more specifically framed staples. Now, the idea behind a staple is taking a series of ribbon wires and stacking them vertically and claptoning wrap around them to create a staple appearance.

Kind of like what you would see if you were to take a row of staples out of a stapler and that’s the appearance that it gets. Now, the difference between a framed staple and a regular staple is simply how the name implies.

It’s got frames around each side of the core of ribbon wire. Generally, it’s going to be something like 26 or 28 gauge. So, let’s go ahead and pop on over to the build station and we’re going to see what tools we’re going to need for today’s build.

Now, first and foremost, you’re definitely going to need your wire. As I said, we’re going to be doing a framed staple coil which is going to be framed with 26 gauge kanthal. The ribbon cores that we’re going to be using is .

4mm stainless steel and it is going to be wrapped in 36 gauge nichrome. Now you’re definitely going to need a drill for this one. I mean you could wrap it by hand, but it’s going to take a while. I strongly recommend a drill.

You’re going to need your RDA with a very accurate ohm meter. You’re going to need scissors and cotton for your wicking. The appropriate tool for your RDA. Ceramic tweezers, while not mandatory, they do help with the balancing process from time to time.

A pair of pliers in order to straighten your frames. The mandrel that you’re going to wrap your coil around. In this case, we’re using the 3mm mandrel on the Coil Master. Wire snips to cut your wire. A pair of nylon toothless pliers to help straighten the wire so we don’t damage it.

While you can get away with using ribbon or a high gauge wire to bind them, I’m going to be using the Coil Assists from USA Ohm Meter to help keep those cores lined up and flowing smoothly. So with that being the case, let’s pop into Steam Engine real quick and see how we need to set these things up properly.

Now for the sake of time, I’ve gone ahead and laid out the wire here within Steam Engine. As I said, we’re going to be using the 3mm mandrel for our Coil Master for our coils. We’re going to be doing approximately 6 wraps for safety sake because that’s what generally fits idealy within the Goon which is what I’m going to be building on.

And to set up our actual wire itself I’ve got the core set up for a parallel core. You can come in and adjust as you see fit. Now, you want to lay this out as close to accurate as how you’ve got your cores laid out for the sake of coming up with the most accurate resistance as you can.

So, looking at it from the top down, we’ve got our 26 gauge kanthal frame and then I’m going to be using six layers of ribbon wire for the internal core.. for the ribbon stack. So I’ve got those laid out individually.

Anytime you’re coming in here, your thickness is always going to be your first number with your width being your second number for your ribbon wire. So I’ve got all six frames or all six layers of ribbon and I’ve finished it up with the second 26 gauge kanthal frame.

For our wrap wire, like I said, we’ve got our nichrome 80 in 36 gauge. Yes, I put 36 gauge instead of 39 like that last video. And for a single coil, this is going to come out with a resistance of 0.175.

Now, again, I’m using stainless steel for our cores which is going to drop that resistance down. You’re definitely going to need to have a mod that’s capable of firing low if you’re planning on running this dual coil.

For something like this, I would recommend like the SX350J v2 or better or a DNA200 or better just for safety sake. Last thing you want to do is become a news story. So let’s go ahead and get the build table cleared and we’ll get this build started.

OK, so first and foremost, we’re going to want to set up our ribbon core. So, ideally, with us using a six stack center core, we’re going to want to do three strands of about 20 inches because we’ll be folding these over to get a nice firm and solid stack.

So I’m going to cut this off at about the 20 inch mark give or take. And you want to keep these as flat and straight as you possibly can. Now if you’re using ribbon stacks or ribbon spools where they’re tightly wound, you can give them a little bit of a stretch to help straighten them out.

Now if you’re using the Kidney Puncher spools, they come off pretty flat and straight on their own so you shouldn’t have to really worry about it. But we’re going to go ahead and straighten out our third piece of ribbon wire here and get that cut off.

And then, what you’re going to want to do is you’re going to want to find the middle point on this and just kind of line them up and bend it in half. And then, once you get that in half and you’ve got them all lined up, just take a small piece of your wrap wire or whatever you have handy and use it as an active binding wire.

So I’m just going to cut off a little piece right here and I’m just going to take this 36 gauge wrap wire that we’re going to be using and right close at the end I’m going to take it and wrap it tightly around it just to kind of hold that closed.

It doesn’t have to look pretty. Just get it nice and tight where it’s not going to come loose on you. And then for the other end, if you want, you can run your fingers down and you can bind the other side as well.

I do recommend it. If you have problems keeping those straight, what you can do is come from this top end where you just did your bind and do another loop series to wrap it around. Opps, make sure you don’t get your other binding in there.

And then just cut that off and just slide it right on down and that will keep your cores all nice and lined up. So that preps out your core wire. So we’re going to put that off to the side and then, of course, we’re going to want our frame wire.

Now, again, with us doing a dual core, we’re going to want this to be give or take about 20 inches in length. If it’s a little bit longer, that’s fine, especially if you have a drill that doesn’t quite close down.

This will give your drill a little bit extra to wrap into those uh the jaws of the chuck. Now, ideally, what you’re going to want to do is straighten this wire out. So I’m just going to take it and bend just a little L into it.

I’m going to stick it in between the jaws on the chuck of my drill. Tighten it down really tight and holding the other end with a pair of pliers. Just holding that tight, I’m going to give it a little spin (drill noise) and then run my fingers down it and release at the pliers and we end up with a nice, straight wire.

From here, we’re just going to take this and bend it in half. Because this is going to, like I said, this is going to wrap around that ribbon core and act as a frame now a lot of people prefer the framed staples over the regular staples simply because of how difficult the ribbons are to fold in a regular staple coil.

Where when you have the frames around it they’re more tolerant to wrapping into a coil because they have a little bit more give to them. But all I’m going to do here is I’m going to secure the frame of this to that ribbon wire and what I recommend is taking some of that binding wire that you’re using that 36 gauge and wrapping it into that loop that was created in the ribbon.

This will just help it hold better in place and just kind of do a figure eight with it and just give it another couple of wraps. That’s going to keep that nice and secure for you. Now, we’re just going to run our fingers all the way down this.

As you can see, we’ve got this all lined up nice and tight here. I’m going to try to get this focused in as good as I can. But with us having this nice and tight, I’m just going to slide that binder off now that we’ve got it in place and cut that loose.

We get it all nice and lined up and flush cut. We’re just going to mount on our Coil Assists and slide them right on. You want to make sure that the cores are nice and lined up. You don’t want any flipped over on you.

You want all running nice and parallel with each other. It looks like I’ve got one that is slightly flipped out of place so let’s run it down and straighten that out just a little bit. There we go. Now I’m only going to use three of the Coil Assists for today’s build because I don’t want to lose a whole lot of this core wire inside these Coil Assists.

Again, you can use ribbon wire for your binding wire, your 36 gauge, you can use cord locks, whatever works best for you. Just go ahead use that to help keep those wires together and lined up properly.

Now with it hooked up like this, I’m going to take these frames that we’ve got going on get these lined up nice and tight again. The hardest part of this is the prep work. The more time you put in the prep work the more successful your core your wire is going to be.

We’ve got this lined up and I’m just going to T out these frames to allow the drill something better to grab ahold of. Come on there we go. And I’m just going to stick those T lines into the chuck of the drill.

Now I may have to cut off some of that ribbon wire. I don’t know. No, it looks like it’s going to fall in there just fine. And make sure that it’s nice and tight and secure. What you end up with is your cores all lined up perfectly inside there and you’re just going to slide your Coil Assist down and keep it firm in there.

And with the other end, we’re going to slide both the ribbon stack loop and the frame loop into our swivel set. Pull it nice and tight. Slide your third Coil Assist down to the very end to keep it secured and then this one is going to be our slider that keeps lines all nice and parallel as we go.

Taking our clapton wire, we’re just going to wrap it loosely around one of the legs that are sticking out. We’re just going to give it a little spin to get it lined up. Put our Coil Assist up firm and wrap this just like you would a normal clapton line.

If you happen to back back over your line it’s no big deal just reverse your drill and pull it right back out and continue on. And what you end up with is a nice framed staple. It looks similar to that of a fused clapton except it’s considerably wider.

But if you look at the top, you can see where it’s got that appearance as if you’re looking down on the top of a row of staples and that’s where it gets its name from. Because if you look, this has got some considerable width to it when you compare it to that of this screwdriver.

So it’s pretty close to the same size. So let’s get this prepped up and wrapped and get them going as a solid coil. Okay, so when it comes to wrapping this like I said we’re using our 3 millimeter mandrel on our Coil Master.

Now, we’re not going to need the cap for this so we’re just going to put that off to the side. Basically, what you’re going to want to do is just holding with nice, firm pressure just wrap it around and keep firm tension on the line as you’re wrapping this.

Now, if you’re using if you decided to do just a regular staple, this is going to want to tend to twist on you and that’s where the toothless nylon pliers come in handy to where you can twist it back straight.

But you want to maintain as much tension on the line as you possibly can to keep it from springing out on you. Now like I said, we’re going to do 6 wraps here. I’m just going to go ahead and wrap up our 6.

That’s 5 and 6. We’re going to go just a little bit past because we want to crook out these legs like we normally do just to allow it to sit more flush and even within the RDA. Get that nice snip right there at the base.

And then we’re going to repeat for the second coil. Now when it comes to mounting in the Goon, ideally what you would like to do is to get them sized up and pre-trimmed and ready to go. So what I generally do is I mount one in and then I’ll take a pair of flush cuts and just cut it as close to that post as I possibly can on both legs just to get that nice and pre-trimmed.

Because it’s going to be more difficult when that second coil is in there to trim those. So I’m going to take that one out and do the same process with the second coil. And now that those are both perfectly sized up, we can go ahead and mount both of them in.

Making sure they’re nice and secure and then tightening down as we normally do. Now due to the girth of these coils, you’re going to want to make sure that your RDA is beefy enough to support the width of them.

Obviously, if you’re making smaller smaller cores for your for your staples you won’t have to worry about having quite as big of post holes. But it helps to have a little bit of extra room. Tighten these down nice and tight.

Using the mandrel out of our Coil Master we’re going to get these centered up, straightened out. Just pull them out just a little bit from the post holes themselves. Now according to Steam Engine when we built this coil earlier within Steam Engine, it said that we should come out to a point 17 uh point 175 with a single coil.

So that’s going to be about a point nine’ish dual coil so lets see what we ohm out to pre-fire. It’s going to ohm lower. And we come out to a point 07 yeah right about a point 07. So once we get this fired in it should bring it back up to to its normal final resistance.

I’m just going to get this screwed right back on here. And I’m going to mount this on the SX350J v2. This is my Kuddles From Kaitlyn box that was built by SP Custom Vapors. Get that mounted up and I’m going to turn this wattage down a little bit while we burn these in.

Like every other coil you’re just going to burn this in nice and slow. Work out any hot spots as you go. Okay and there they are they’re glowing nice and even. So we’re going to go ahead and let that cool down real quick and we’ll get to wicking.

Okay that should be cooled down. Yup, there we go. Okay so I’m going to get all this out of the way. Now, because we used a 3 millimeter mandrel this time we’re going to want to use a little bit more cotton than we would with a 2.

5 millimeter. So generally with a pad of muji cotton for a 3 millimeter mandrel, I’m going to use about a third of the pad. Cut that off. And as usual we’re going to remove the front and back matted layers on the pad just to give it that nice wicking capability.

Do that on both pads. Now before we go ahead and get this wicked, lets see what we finally ended up with. And as we can see, we ended up right at the point 08 mark. Which we said it was going to be about a point 09 point 08 is pretty spot on.

Again, make sure that you have a mod that can handle before you actually use this. Always remember battery safety. We’re just going to twist this on through. Just give it a little wiggle to settle it in.

Snip off the tails according to the length that you need for your RDA. And repeat with the second side. Now as with all the coils that I show you guys how to build, you want to make sure that there’s plenty of airflow up underneath the coil.

So once you’re done wicking, you should be able to see all the way through to the other side on both sides. That’s going to give your coil the airflow it needs to wick properly and to heat properly so you don’t scorch your cotton.

Now we’re going to be putting a little bit of HiggyCig’s Horchatta on here. If you haven’t tried HiggyCigs, definitely go and check them out. I’ll have the links for both HiggyCigs and SP Customs for the box down below.

We’re just going to soak up in the coil itself. Let that saturate while we wet down the rest of the cotton. Remember you don’t need to drown your cotton. Just enough to saturate it because the more juice you have on your cotton, the more spitback you’re going to get.

Always remember to adjust your airflow. I like to have mine about two thirds of the way open. Line it up and I’ll meet you back up top. Okay, so we’ve got it all juiced up and ready to go. We’re running point 08 was the final at 80 watts.

You can see it definitely has a very dense vapor to it. This is not something you’re going to stealth vape, guys. The flavor is rich. It definitely brings out those creams and those custards. Because of the increased surface area, it does have that rich undertone to it.

Now, due to the density of the coil, it is going to take a little bit longer to ramp up. Especially in that 70 to 90 watt range. Once you get to the 100 and plus, you’re going to get a faster ramp up time.

If you like the video, give it a thumbs up and maybe subscribe. If you have any questions, comments, or if you would like to see a different coil built definitely leave a comment down below. I try to put out new videos every Monday at 2pm Eastern so make sure that you check back.

Remember, it’s not the cigarettes you smoke, but rather the ones you don’t smoke that matter. I don’t care if you’re vaping a point 1 or a 10 ohm coil. As long as it’s safe and it satisfies you, that’s all that matters.

Because at the end of the day, it’s your vaping experience. So I’m going to cut on out of here. Enjoy your vaping journey, but do it safely.


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